The Kordon waterfront in İzmir at 7pm on a Friday evening is one of the most agreeable urban scenes in Turkey. The outdoor cafe tables extend for kilometers along the Gulf of İzmir; cyclists and joggers push past families and couples; the ferries cross the harbor in a continuous flow; and the Aegean mountains on the far shore turn from green to purple as the sun drops. I ordered a raki and a plate of meze and watched the light change for two hours, which felt like exactly what the city was designed for.
İzmir is Turkey’s third-largest city and its most Mediterranean in character — secular, relaxed, cosmopolitan, with a cafe culture that is genuine rather than performed for tourists. The comparison to İstanbul is inevitable but unfair: İzmir is a different thing. It is the kind of city that its own residents understand to be special, where the waterfront belongs to the people who live there rather than to visitors, and where the bazaar operates primarily for local customers rather than tour groups.
The Kemeraltı covered bazaar is the best case in point. Unlike İstanbul’s Grand Bazaar (excellent but heavily tourist-oriented), Kemeraltı serves İzmirliler first — the price pressure is lighter, the range of goods is more genuinely useful, and the Ottoman han courtyards at its center feel like working commercial spaces rather than historic attractions. The Kızlarağası Hanı, a 1744 han with a tea garden at its center, is one of Turkey’s finest Ottoman commercial buildings.
And then there is Ephesus. Ancient Ephesus — one of the greatest cities of the Roman world, with 250,000 people at its peak, the Library of Celsus, a 25,000-seat theatre, and the Temple of Artemis (one of the Seven Wonders) — is 70km south of İzmir. The IZBAN suburban train reaches Selçuk in an hour for about 20 TL, and from Selçuk the ruins are a 15-minute walk. One full day from İzmir covers the site comprehensively.
The Arrival
The Kordon waterfront at sunset — Turkey's most Mediterranean city with Ephesus one train stop south.
Why İzmir deserves your attention
İzmir rewards visitors who look beyond its reputation as a transit hub for Ephesus. The city has a genuine urban culture — the Kordon waterfront, the Kemeraltı bazaar, the Asansör (1907 elevator) connecting the harbor level to the hilltop Karataş neighborhood, the ancient agora of Smyrna (open-air Roman forum in the middle of the modern city), and a food scene anchored by the finest fresh Aegean seafood at honest prices.
As a base for the Aegean coast, İzmir is unmatched. Ephesus is 70km south. Pergamon (another major Hellenistic-Roman site, with the finest hilltop citadel in Turkey) is 100km north. Çeşme, one of Turkey’s finest beach resorts, is 85km west. Pamukkale is 3 hours inland. The city’s international airport (ADB) connects directly to most European hubs.
The exchange rate makes İzmir particularly good value. A Kordon fish dinner for two with raki runs 800–1200 TL ($25–36 USD). A night in a good boutique hotel is $60–100. The IZBAN train covers the city and coast connections efficiently and cheaply.
What To Explore
Waterfront evenings, ancient bazaar lanes, and the world's finest ancient city 70km south.
What should you do in İzmir?
Kordon Waterfront (Birinci Kordon) — The main social artery of İzmir: kilometers of outdoor restaurants, cafes, and promenade along the Gulf. Arrive in the late afternoon (5–7pm) when the light is best, order raki and meze, and watch the ferries. This is not a tourist attraction; it is where İzmirliler live their evenings.
Kemeraltı Bazaar — İzmir’s Ottoman covered market, serving local customers first. Several kilometers of lanes, Ottoman han courtyards, and the finest spice and herb selection outside Istanbul. The Kızlarağası Hanı (1744) has a courtyard tea garden. Free to enter; prices significantly lower than Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar.
Ephesus Day Trip (70km south) — Take the IZBAN suburban rail from Alsancak to Selçuk (1 hour, ~20 TL), walk or taxi to the site. Allow a full day for the main ruins, Terrace Houses, and Ephesus Museum. One of the world’s greatest ancient sites, accessible cheaply and easily from İzmir.
Ancient Agora of Smyrna — The open-air Roman forum (2nd century AD) preserved in the middle of İzmir’s modern bazaar district. The colonnaded basilica, stoa, and statuary bases are visible in an archaeological park. Free entry. Remarkable juxtaposition with the surrounding urban fabric.
Asansör (1907 Elevator) — The historic outdoor elevator connecting the harbor-level Karataş neighborhood with the hilltop above. The restaurant at the top has the best view of the Gulf of İzmir and is worth a coffee stop regardless of the elevator novelty.
Çeşme Peninsula (85km west) — The Aegean resort peninsula west of İzmir, with the best beaches on the Turkish Aegean coast. Ilıca, Alaçatı (boutique village, excellent restaurants), and the thermal springs. Day trip by bus or IZBAN rail. Best in May–June or September–October.
- Getting There: Adnan Menderes Airport (ADB), 20 minutes from city center by IZBAN rail (10 TL). Direct flights from most European hubs. İzmir is a natural first or last stop for Aegean coast itineraries.
- Best Time: April–June and September–November — mild temperatures (20–28°C), the Kordon at its best. July–August is hot but functional; the sea breeze makes the waterfront more comfortable than inland.
- Money: Less expensive than Istanbul. Budget $40–65/day for comfortable travel including accommodation, meals, and day trip transport. Kordon fish dinner with raki: $25–35 for two.
- Don't Miss: The kumru — İzmir's street sandwich: salami, kashar cheese, tomato, and pickles in a sesame roll, about 60–80 TL. Better than it sounds and specific to this city.
- Avoid: Rushing straight to Ephesus without spending a night in İzmir first — the city itself rewards an evening on the Kordon before you see the ancient version 70km south.
- Local Phrase: "İzmir'de ne yenir?" (eez-MEER-deh neh YEH-neer) — What does one eat in İzmir? The answer is long and involves the Kordon fish restaurants.
The Food
Fresh Aegean fish on the Kordon, kumru sandwiches, and the best meze selection on Turkey's west coast.
Where should you eat in İzmir?
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Kordon fish restaurants (Birinci Kordon) — The row of outdoor restaurants along the waterfront serves fresh Aegean fish at competitive prices with the best setting in the city. Sea bass and dorado approximately 200–400 TL each; meze and raki additional 300–500 TL. Full dinner for two approximately 800–1200 TL.
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Kumru from street stands — İzmir’s street sandwich is specific to this city: salami, kashar cheese, tomato, and pickles in a toasted sesame roll. Available from stands throughout the city; approximately 60–80 TL. This is local fast food and it is excellent.
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Rahmi M. Koç Museum restaurant area (Alsancak) — The Alsancak district around the museum has İzmir’s best concentration of upscale restaurants and bars for an evening out.
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Kemeraltı lokanta lunch — The small traditional lunch restaurants inside the bazaar serve the worker and market crowd: fresh soup, bread, a meat dish, and ayran for 150–200 TL. The best value lunch in the city.
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Deniz Restaurant — Long-established Kordon fish restaurant consistently reviewed as the finest on the waterfront. Higher prices than the neighbors (800–1200 TL per person) but justified by the fish quality.
Where to Stay
Alsancak or Konak for Kordon access and city character — both neighborhoods walk to the waterfront and the bazaar.
Where should you stay in İzmir?
Budget ($35–65/night): Several good budget hotels in the Konak and Kemeraltı areas offer clean rooms with easy access to the bazaar and waterfront. Alsancak has options closer to the restaurant district.
Mid-range ($80–150/night): Mövenpick Hotel İzmir and Swissôtel Büyük Efes both offer good mid-range comfort in central locations with waterfront access. Boutique hotels in the Alsancak area run $70–120 and offer more character.
Luxury ($150–350+/night): Marriott İzmir and Hilton İzmir are the established luxury properties. For the most atmospheric option, the Kordon Otel puts you directly on the waterfront promenade.
Before You Go
Two nights minimum: one evening on the Kordon, one full day at Ephesus, and everything else in between.
When is the best time to visit İzmir?
April–June and September–November are optimal: warm enough for the Kordon evenings and beach trips to Çeşme, mild enough for the ancient sites, and with smaller crowds than summer. The sea breeze makes summer (July–August) more manageable than inland Turkey but it still reaches 35°C in August.
İzmir works as a 1–2 day base in a longer Aegean Turkey circuit — Bodrum 3 hours south, Pamukkale 3 hours east, Pergamon 2 hours north. The city’s airport has the best connectivity for the northern Aegean region. Plan your full itinerary at /plan/ or see all Turkey destinations.